We have been sailing in the Bahamas many times. Most of these times we have limited our sailing to the Abacos. Its a spectacular cruising ground with a variety of islands to experience. From Manjack (or Munjack) Cay as a somewhat secluded anchorage that is uninhabited to the quaint Bahamian beauty of Elbow Cay; the Abacos provides a broad range of experiences.
We have experienced other areas as well, Eleuthera/Spanish Wells and Bimini are both unique experiences. We spent extensive amount of time on Eleuthera and we enjoy the people we have met in Spanish Wells, Hatchet Bay and RockSound.
This year we finally made it to the Exumas (and Long Island and Jumentos). It is home to many private homes and islands of business people and entertainers. We understand why. The island chain is over 130 miles long with 350 islands. The Exuma bank is shallow and this feature gives the chain a stunning turquoise water between many of the islands. With no massive land mass with rivers containing silt, the waters are crystal clear.
The top of the chain is only about 30 miles Southeast of Nassau and its quite easy to get to by the many tourists boats that leave from there each day. Its a different experience on your own boat.
We did not get to experience every island. We would like to try one day though. We have several favorite stops in the Exumas and maybe one or two that are worth going once, but, for us at least, we did not enjoy.
Normans
Normans is North of the Bahamas Land and Sea Park. There are several anchorages on the Western side and some can become crowded. As on many of the islands there is a private airstrip. One of the key attractions is a wreck of a DC 3. Aside there are beaches to explore and small islets on the “inside”. One of our favorite activities was hunting Lion Fish on the many coral heads that you find in anchorages or near by to dinghy.
BlackPoint
Black Point is a small town mid island chain. Its a favorite of cruisers, especially those that don’t want to go to GeorgeTown. The towns establishments host cruisers happy hours and bon fires during the season. There are facilities for laundry and groceries, and some of the best, fresh baked Bahamian sweet bread you will ever have. But most importantly, the people are exceptionally welcoming and really want you to be there.
Little Farmers Key
Little Farmers Key is a small island just south of Black Point. It hosts 56 inhabitants or 56 of the nicest people one may ever meet. As in Black Point the residents are happy to see you and really want you to be there. You will be JR the wood carver that does incredible works of art with native wood. While at his shop he took Wyatt under his wing and taught him some basics of wood carving. Miss Tasha the proprietor of the grocery store, sold us some goods, but insisted we sit at the picnic tables outside her store to chat for a while. She even offered to cook us dinner, though it was the next time we came through. While there be sure to dine or drink at the Ocean Cabin and meet Terry. Be sure to get his opinion on the latest topic of the day. He isn’t shy. But we warned he will challenge your beliefs…
It is hard to find a place that is both simultaneously a must see location and somewhere you don’t want to go… Georgetown is that place. As with most places in the Bahamas the people are great. But as the largest town in the Exumas and largest harbor it attracts the most cruisers. By. The. Hundreds. When we arrived, late season mind you, there were still 300 boats. Finding a spot to anchor near resources can be a challenge. We like smaller towns with fewer cruisers. But there is a lot going on with this number of people. There is a cruisers regatta. Sunday beach worship. Yoga on the beach. Craft days. Lots of kids with lots of cruiser organized activities. But that’s the good side. There is a negative side. While we were there a local bahamian boat ran over a dinghy at speed killing a cruiser. The authorities did next to nothing. A few days later, drunk cruisers ran their hard dinghy into a yacht causing considerable damage.
The Exumas is beautiful and the locals are warm and friendly. Its a place we will go back to for years to come. We might just avoid Georgetown though…